Saturday, 22 August 2009

Final Message (for now)

posted by Bart at 19:14

The last trip along the Belgian and Dutch coast went much faster then expected. The wind gradually veered to the southwest, and slowly increased to a force 7. So I flew the spinaker for as long as I dared, (not too long, as I didn't want to risk to break anything this last trip), then set the High Aspect jib. I flew along at a steady 9.5 knots, having almost a knot and a half of fair tide. So late in the morning, I called Jurrien that, if I kept on going, I could be in IJmuiden that evening. So she hurriedly finished her job of that day, raced home on her new Bromton bicycle, getting soaked in the process, got in the car and raced to IJmuiden. We got there at the same time, she going up to the inner pier (Kop van de Haven, near the restaurant), and I sailed into the harbour and temporarily tied up along the pier for a long kiss...

Then we both went to the Seaport Marina, she by car and I by boat, and had another long kiss and a dram of whiskey.... Went to bed early...

The next morning, when I was to finish this 4 month trip officially, we first had a visit of the insurance expert, who came to see all my damaged equipment. Then we went off to the lock, where both our parents, my sister, brother in law, friend Saskia and my aunt Bep all waited to see us in. It was a very heartwarming welcome! After that, Jurrien and I sailed to Amsterdam, where we had a quiet night at the Levanthaven, before we this morning went over to the Sixhaven. All day people came in, some that I expected, some completely unexpected. Very nice indeed.


I would like to thank everybody who visited my website. The number of hits is beyond belief, with visitors from all over the world! Many people either wrote in the Gastenboek, or sent me a private message of encouragement or congratulations. The fact that so may thousands of people apparently enjoyed this site, and my trip, greatly motivated me to keep on writing blog messages, although I did not always like to write things, especially when things didn't go so well. I thank you all.


Bart

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Thursday, 20 August 2009

Last few miles...

posted by Bart at 08:05

I got into Lymington at 2AM, and, not willing to wake up the whole place with my noisy engine, took up a vacant mooring. Next morning, at 9, I set off to the Town Quay, to do some shopping; trying to get some of the English electronics destroyed in the lightning accident. After this, I set off again, and sailed up the Solent, past Cowes, and out again on the other side. Since the weather forecast was for only one more day of nice westerly, I wanted to get east as far as possible. Unfortunately, at night the wind died completely and I lay becalmed for some 4 hours just off Dungeness. In the morning a little wind came up from the south, and I crossed the shipping lines and sailed into Duinkerken.

I had never been there, and also have never visited Belgium. So in Duinkerken I bought a chart of Belgium (my charts of that area were very old and of too large a scale), and yesterday sailed along the beach, in tropical conditions and a very light northeasterly breeze. A dead beat all the way, but quite some tide in the right direction. At 7 PM I was near Blankenbergen, and decided to try to get in. I did, but only just! I touched the bottom several times...

This morning at 6 I escaped the place again. It is thundery over Belgium, and there is only very little wind, from the south. But the wind is expected to freshen, and if the gods are good and don't hit me again with lightning, I will be in Amsterdam next Saturday.

Bart

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Sunday, 16 August 2009

The Good life

posted by Bart at 20:17

Yesterday I sailed from Plymouth to Dartmouth, a distance of some 35 miles. I started off a little late, because I first went to QAB to see some other boats. So I finally left at 3 PM. Dartmouth is a wonderful place. It is situated at the mouth of a river (the Dart). The very entrance is quite narrow, and guarded by an ancient castle on either side. As it was around sunset that I came in, and floodlight was just being lit, it was a marvelous sight. I tied up to the city wall, and rushed off to take a taxi to a nearby village called Stoke Fleming. Peter Crowther is landlord of the local pub, called The Green Dragon. Peter (67?) is in his fourth decade of sailing ostars. He also holds the record for having done the most ostars, and also for the slowest time (89 days). He always enters, and, except for this year, is always last.

For anyone interested in
a) OSTAR
b) a decent English pub
The Green Dragon is highly recommended! The place was established in 1168 (!!!), and records of the landlords go back to 1607. Peter and his family run the place for the last 16 years now, and when I was there (OK, a saturday night), was loaded with people. I was too late for dinner, unfortunately, as the card looked good and looking at other people's plates made me even more hungry!

Today was true Gentleman's sailing. I started off after a decent breakfast and some shopping. Oh, the luxury of coastal sailing! I just finished my supper, which consisted of a shoulder of lamb, a full pound of it, cooked medium rare. With a sliced courgette, a handful of mushrooms and small fresh potato's. Only a good bottle of Bordeaux missed. I finished it with a delicious pine apple. I am now having a cup of tea with some chocolate... All the while the boat was sailing at 7.5 to 8.5 knots, under spinaker, and passing Portland Bill on it's way to the Needles (Isle of Wight). I will miss the tide at the needles, so it will be early tomorrow morning that I get there. But after this meal I will survive a couple of hours!

Bart

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Saturday, 15 August 2009

Homeward bound

posted by Bart at 17:33

Last Tuesday I came into Plymouth. It was great coming there, many people gave me a heroes welcome. I didn't win anything...

Because of the very light weather many Fastnet boats came in very late. Home of Jazz, owned by Dutch friend Maarten Russchen, came in last night. I went out to see him in and finally took his lines in Sutton Harbour, downtown Plymouth, and we had a very late supper with him, his crew Ben and Sharon and Richard from Velocity Girl which is a sister ship to Home of Jazz.

Now, Saturday afternoon, I finally left Plymouth and am heading for Dartmouth. I hope to see Peter Crowther, who also did the ostar. He holds the record for having done the most ostars (9?) and was in his fourth decade of doing it!!


Next week Saturday, August 22, I intend to be in Amsterdam. In the morning, I will be in the Sixhaven, and would like to invite anyone interested on board for a cup of coffee and a chat! Hope to see many!

Bart

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Wednesday, 12 August 2009

Yesterday around noon, I finally reached Plymouth. I went into Queen Anne's Battery (home of the Royal Western Yachtclub) first, to see some people, have a shower and a beer with some of the club members. Then I moved over to Millbay Dock, where my host Ian Hall had arranged a berth for me.

I did not rest long, but am working on getting all my pictures on this web site. So check them out on the fotoalbum section!

Bart

Tuesday, 11 August 2009

5005N 0440W

posted by Bart at 07:57

I did it! I managed to avoid all 300 Fastnetters! Last night, during the dark, it brought strong memories of a Dutch 24-uurs race, so many boats! And they were all on directly opposite course to me, and also on a starboard tack. So I had to avoid all of them. Not much sleep...

And worse, I am now becalmed, with only 20 miles to go. It feels a bit like the finish of the OSTAR, however, this time I just start the engine!

Bart

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Monday, 10 August 2009

4936N 0605W; English Channel

posted by Bart at 19:56

A few minutes ago, at 1730 UTC, I crossed the imaginary line between Bishop Rock and Ile d'Ouessant. This means that I am now not in the Atlantic any more, but sailing up the English Channel.

The day has not been as fast as I hoped it to be. Not only was the wind rather unstable, with unexpected strong gusts (which prevented me from flying the spinaker), but I also had a foul tide. I almost forgot, there are tides in the channel! and from 11 til 5 the tide has been against me. But now the tide is fair, for some 6 hours to come, and the Lizard is only 39 miles ahead. That should be possible! Plymouth is still some 90 miles off, so I will probably get there some time tomorrow.

Now, as the strongest gusts have passed (the wind is supposed to die out over night), I fly the jib poled out on the spinaker pole, and also have the code 0 on the leeward side, as well as a full main. Makes a nice combination, and also easy to reef down in case of gusts. And we finally go fast again, over 8 knots at the moment.

I haven't seen any Fastnet boats yet, and am curious how far they are. Have the first boats rounded the Bishop yet? We'll see.

Bart

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Sunday, 9 August 2009

4911N 0938W

posted by Bart at 22:00

Today was not really a day of speed records. Starting out in flat calm, ever since 2 AM the wind very, very gradually increased until it just now reaches a strength of some 10 knots. Subsequently, the speed has gone up from 1 to 5.5 knots now, all day under spinaker. But it was a very comfortable day, with hardly any swell, which allowed me to catch up some rest after last night. It's been overcast all day, but as from about noon the fog cleared and visibility became excellent. And by going at a steady speed, albeit slowly, in the end of the day, the day's run is not as bad as I feared earlier today. Might be up to some 110 miles.

The forecast is for strong soutwesterly winds tonight. I can't wait! It are now the closing stages of my crossing; the nearest port is now St. Mary, at the Isles of Scilly. Bishop Rock, at the western end of the Scillies, is only 131 miles off. If all goes well I will pass the Scillies tomorrow evening.

Bart

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4854N 1048W

posted by Bart at 11:40

Why is it that during the days, I don't see a living soul. But as soon as night falls, and the fog rolls in, there's boats everywhere! Last night was terrible. No wind to speak of, a swell that made the sails slam against the rigging, and the radar alarms beeping that at least two boats were around. Very tiring!

But now the fog has cleared, a NW wind has come up (although still only 6 or 7 knots, but enough to get me going), and we're off again. I got a visit this morning from a Spanish fishing vessel. Maybe that was the vessel that hang around last night!

I was informed last night, that the famous Fastnet race starts today. A 300 boat fleet leaves Cowes (Isle of Wight) at noon today. They will sail down the Channel, around the Bishop Rock, up the Celtic sea to round the Fastnet rock off the SW coast of Ireland, and then back into the channel for a finish in Plymouth. I'm afraid I will see all 300 of them! As the winds will be SW from this evening, it will be a dead beat for them. And I might be going under spinaker, so not the most ideal conditions to dodge a 300 boat fleet!

But I hope to beat them into Plymouth!

Bart

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Saturday, 8 August 2009

4849N 1213W

posted by Bart at 21:47

Thick fog, almost becalmed... Bah!

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4835N 1318W

posted by Bart at 14:31

Today is probably my last day in ocean proper, for some time to come. At the moment I am still in the so called Porcupine Abyssal Plane, a valley in the ocean floor with a depth of over 4000m; as from this evening I will start to ascent the continental shelf. Today is quite different from the week before; it is drizzling, foggy and damp. The high pressure ridge has moved somewhat to the east and a small trough has moved in, giving me this weather and a moderate southerly breeze. There is no swell to speak of, and, while I am reaching under spinaker, quite comfortable inside. The invaluable Alladin lamp is burning slowly, and the boat is nice and warm. But, for the first time in two weeks, I am wearing jeans and a sweater! English summer, I presume!

This reaching under spinaker, how nice it may be, will not last long, as we are going in the wrong direction. That is, too far to the north. But I have the choice of going at 7 knots too far north, or going at 4 knots in the right direction. So when I reach 49 degrees north, and the wind is still southerly, I will take the spi down and go due east. If I go too far north, I might get on the northern side of the low, and run into easterlies! This little trough is a sort of intermediate system between the high on the southeast, and a new, Atlantic low. The new low, with accompanying westerlies, will only come in on monday, so for today and tomorrow I will have to do with this. ETA Plymouth still Tuesday night or Wednesday morning...

Bart

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Friday, 7 August 2009

4745N 1630W

posted by Bart at 15:51

It might start to get boring, but I can only report of yet another perfect sailing day. The whole of last week has been marvelous, with my worst day (mentioned in the previous posting) of 140 miles. Then a day of 152, and all other days in the 160's. Sunny, partly clouded, wind southwesterly some 20 knots. Jib poled out. Yesterday, the wind abated a little, so flew the spinaker for some time. Gave me something to do :-).

Today we continuously sailed very fast; if conditions last til midnight this will be a 170, or maybe even a 180 mile day. But, conditions are forecast to calm down, as a high pressure cell develops over my position tomorrow. As it looks now, the wind will die out tomorrow, and by tomorrow night will be completely becalmed. But, last time predictions proved wrong and we kept some wind, so let's hope that will happen again. Still 470 miles to the Lizard.

When I get in Plymouth, I will post all my pictures on this site, so keep checking next week!

Bart

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Thursday, 6 August 2009

4611N 2034W

posted by Bart at 11:26

The fast sailing lasted two full days, both gave 160 miles. After that, I was supposed to enter an area of high pressure and subsequently less wind. But, maybe as a result of my attempts to sail around, over the top, of this high, the speed loss was not as bad as expected. In fact, I still did 152 miles yesterday. And the course is also not so bad, although a little north or the direct course. Finisterre is now 518 miles off, Flores is 615 miles behind and the Lizard 655 miles ahead.

The huge swell of the last few days, a result of a mammoth depression west of Ireland, finally abates somewhat. It makes the sailing much more comfortable, without this swell!

Bart

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Wednesday, 5 August 2009

4438N 2510W

posted by Bart at 00:23

Another splendid day! Stiff wind (20-25kn), fast reaching on a huge sea. The surface of the sea is quite choppy, with waves from all directions the boat bounces over. Underneath these waves is a ridiculously huge swell; in an attempt to estimate the height I climbed the mast to the lower spreader, but from there was by far not able to look over the top of the next wave when the boat was in a trough. So I estimate the height at at least 6 meters. Rather impressive!

Occasionally the boat just takes off, surfing down these big waves. Regularly she hits 11 or 12 knots. De Franschman will quite easily plane at speeds in that range. The highest speed, until last week, was 15.3. That was set back in 1998, the first year that the boat went to sea. Amazingly, it took til last week to improve on that. This being not a race, and the middle of the Atlantic makes me a bit more careful than I would have been closer to a shore. But conditions were just right: a gust, a little too much sail, and the perfect wave. The boat just accelerated and didn't stop, just went faster and faster. And I was in my sleeping bag, looking at the speedometer going up and up, all the way to 16.7! Waw! And nothing much happened; after this mighty surf the boat returned to more normal speeds, and I quickly put a reef in!

Bart

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Tuesday, 4 August 2009

4400N 2645W; Europe

posted by Bart at 12:44

Last night I passed the longitude of Horta, and most of the other Azorean Islands. I am some 250 miles north of them. And more importantly, I crossed the Mid Atlantic Ridge. According to the map, I sailed right over the top of a mountain, only 625 meters below me. That sounds still deep enough, but this mountain rises from the seabed at some 4000 meters. So, seen from the ground, quite a mountain! I am now back in deep water, again, and over the European tectonic plate.

The wind is still fresh, from the north west, and we are going fast, over 7 most of the time! There is quite a big sea running. Surely, to my north, the wind is much stronger! But this situation is not to last; a high pressure system will move in from the south, and, if I am far enough to the north, will bring gentle westerly winds. Not bad, but we will slow down a bit. But probably teh temperature will rise again, as this morning it was only a little over 10 degrees, Cold, especially when you are used to subtropical nights!

Bart

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Sunday, 2 August 2009

4213N 3145W; Europe, here we come!

posted by Bart at 23:31

As the long range weather forecast for the Western Approaches seems good (no tropical hurricanes forecast, calms instead...), I have decided to head directly for Europe. Flores, the westernmost island of the Azores, is almost due south from my position, but some 150 miles away. Cape Finisterre still 994 and the Lizard 1194.

During the past week I sailed due east, skirting the southern edge of a big Low, which is currently stationary west of Ireland. It gives gale force winds all over, but here, on the southern edge, only some 15 knots. This morning, the wind steadily decreased, so around noon I took the decision to gybe and sail ENE to look for some wind. Indeed, the wind slowly increased again to 15/20 knots. Perfect sailing with poled out jib. Further, tomorrow a cold front will pass, and the further north I am the better it will be; am I too far south the wind will veer all the way to the northeast; am I sufficiently far north, the wind will only veer from west to northwest.

Last night I saw a fish inspecting the lure. At first I thought is was a dolphin, and felt sorry for that. But later I realized that, although this fish had a dorsal fin on it's back, it looked much more like the blue fin tuna's from the book. It twisted around the lure a few times, and was then gone. What a pity! I have nog caught anything since that single bluefish on the way to New York.

Bart

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Saturday, 1 August 2009

4140N 3549W; Mid Atlantic

posted by Bart at 18:19

Around noon today I could fold the chart so that I am now closing in to Europe. A big step this is! I am truly in mid-Atlantic, happily skirting the southern edge of a big Atlantic depression. And while gales rage to the north of my position, I only have a gentle westerly wind of about 15 knots. This is likely to slowly increase tonight and tomorrow to 20 or 25 (force 6), but that's OK with me.

At the moment I am:
244 miles off Flores, on my starboard bow
1181 miles off Camarinas, on the northwest corner of Spain, due east from here
1367 miles off the Lizard, England
1122 miles off Whitehead, Nova Scotia (this is measured in a straight line, as the crow flies. It does not take into account the dogleg I made to get around the Grand Banks)
1589 miles off Newport, Rhode Island.

Depending on the long range weather forecast for the Western Approaches, tomorrow, I might skip a visit to the Azores and head straight for Europe. So far, the trip is going very smoothly, and it is a shame to visit exotic and remote islands as Flores (or the other Azores), without having time to enjoy them properly.

Bart

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