Then we both went to the Seaport Marina, she by car and I by boat, and had another long kiss and a dram of whiskey.... Went to bed early...
The next morning, when I was to finish this 4 month trip officially, we first had a visit of the insurance expert, who came to see all my damaged equipment. Then we went off to the lock, where both our parents, my sister, brother in law, friend Saskia and my aunt Bep all waited to see us in. It was a very heartwarming welcome! After that, Jurrien and I sailed to Amsterdam, where we had a quiet night at the Levanthaven, before we this morning went over to the Sixhaven. All day people came in, some that I expected, some completely unexpected. Very nice indeed.
I would like to thank everybody who visited my website. The number of hits is beyond belief, with visitors from all over the world! Many people either wrote in the Gastenboek, or sent me a private message of encouragement or congratulations. The fact that so may thousands of people apparently enjoyed this site, and my trip, greatly motivated me to keep on writing blog messages, although I did not always like to write things, especially when things didn't go so well. I thank you all.
Bart
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I had never been there, and also have never visited Belgium. So in Duinkerken I bought a chart of Belgium (my charts of that area were very old and of too large a scale), and yesterday sailed along the beach, in tropical conditions and a very light northeasterly breeze. A dead beat all the way, but quite some tide in the right direction. At 7 PM I was near Blankenbergen, and decided to try to get in. I did, but only just! I touched the bottom several times...
This morning at 6 I escaped the place again. It is thundery over Belgium, and there is only very little wind, from the south. But the wind is expected to freshen, and if the gods are good and don't hit me again with lightning, I will be in Amsterdam next Saturday.
Bart
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For anyone interested in
a) OSTAR
b) a decent English pub
The Green Dragon is highly recommended! The place was established in 1168 (!!!), and records of the landlords go back to 1607. Peter and his family run the place for the last 16 years now, and when I was there (OK, a saturday night), was loaded with people. I was too late for dinner, unfortunately, as the card looked good and looking at other people's plates made me even more hungry!
Today was true Gentleman's sailing. I started off after a decent breakfast and some shopping. Oh, the luxury of coastal sailing! I just finished my supper, which consisted of a shoulder of lamb, a full pound of it, cooked medium rare. With a sliced courgette, a handful of mushrooms and small fresh potato's. Only a good bottle of Bordeaux missed. I finished it with a delicious pine apple. I am now having a cup of tea with some chocolate... All the while the boat was sailing at 7.5 to 8.5 knots, under spinaker, and passing Portland Bill on it's way to the Needles (Isle of Wight). I will miss the tide at the needles, so it will be early tomorrow morning that I get there. But after this meal I will survive a couple of hours!
Bart
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Because of the very light weather many Fastnet boats came in very late. Home of Jazz, owned by Dutch friend Maarten Russchen, came in last night. I went out to see him in and finally took his lines in Sutton Harbour, downtown Plymouth, and we had a very late supper with him, his crew Ben and Sharon and Richard from Velocity Girl which is a sister ship to Home of Jazz.
Now, Saturday afternoon, I finally left Plymouth and am heading for Dartmouth. I hope to see Peter Crowther, who also did the ostar. He holds the record for having done the most ostars (9?) and was in his fourth decade of doing it!!
Next week Saturday, August 22, I intend to be in Amsterdam. In the morning, I will be in the Sixhaven, and would like to invite anyone interested on board for a cup of coffee and a chat! Hope to see many!
Bart
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And worse, I am now becalmed, with only 20 miles to go. It feels a bit like the finish of the OSTAR, however, this time I just start the engine!
Bart
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The day has not been as fast as I hoped it to be. Not only was the wind rather unstable, with unexpected strong gusts (which prevented me from flying the spinaker), but I also had a foul tide. I almost forgot, there are tides in the channel! and from 11 til 5 the tide has been against me. But now the tide is fair, for some 6 hours to come, and the Lizard is only 39 miles ahead. That should be possible! Plymouth is still some 90 miles off, so I will probably get there some time tomorrow.
Now, as the strongest gusts have passed (the wind is supposed to die out over night), I fly the jib poled out on the spinaker pole, and also have the code 0 on the leeward side, as well as a full main. Makes a nice combination, and also easy to reef down in case of gusts. And we finally go fast again, over 8 knots at the moment.
I haven't seen any Fastnet boats yet, and am curious how far they are. Have the first boats rounded the Bishop yet? We'll see.
Bart
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The forecast is for strong soutwesterly winds tonight. I can't wait! It are now the closing stages of my crossing; the nearest port is now St. Mary, at the Isles of Scilly. Bishop Rock, at the western end of the Scillies, is only 131 miles off. If all goes well I will pass the Scillies tomorrow evening.
Bart
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But now the fog has cleared, a NW wind has come up (although still only 6 or 7 knots, but enough to get me going), and we're off again. I got a visit this morning from a Spanish fishing vessel. Maybe that was the vessel that hang around last night!
I was informed last night, that the famous Fastnet race starts today. A 300 boat fleet leaves Cowes (Isle of Wight) at noon today. They will sail down the Channel, around the Bishop Rock, up the Celtic sea to round the Fastnet rock off the SW coast of Ireland, and then back into the channel for a finish in Plymouth. I'm afraid I will see all 300 of them! As the winds will be SW from this evening, it will be a dead beat for them. And I might be going under spinaker, so not the most ideal conditions to dodge a 300 boat fleet!
But I hope to beat them into Plymouth!
Bart
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This reaching under spinaker, how nice it may be, will not last long, as we are going in the wrong direction. That is, too far to the north. But I have the choice of going at 7 knots too far north, or going at 4 knots in the right direction. So when I reach 49 degrees north, and the wind is still southerly, I will take the spi down and go due east. If I go too far north, I might get on the northern side of the low, and run into easterlies! This little trough is a sort of intermediate system between the high on the southeast, and a new, Atlantic low. The new low, with accompanying westerlies, will only come in on monday, so for today and tomorrow I will have to do with this. ETA Plymouth still Tuesday night or Wednesday morning...
Bart
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Today we continuously sailed very fast; if conditions last til midnight this will be a 170, or maybe even a 180 mile day. But, conditions are forecast to calm down, as a high pressure cell develops over my position tomorrow. As it looks now, the wind will die out tomorrow, and by tomorrow night will be completely becalmed. But, last time predictions proved wrong and we kept some wind, so let's hope that will happen again. Still 470 miles to the Lizard.
When I get in Plymouth, I will post all my pictures on this site, so keep checking next week!
Bart
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The huge swell of the last few days, a result of a mammoth depression west of Ireland, finally abates somewhat. It makes the sailing much more comfortable, without this swell!
Bart
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Occasionally the boat just takes off, surfing down these big waves. Regularly she hits 11 or 12 knots. De Franschman will quite easily plane at speeds in that range. The highest speed, until last week, was 15.3. That was set back in 1998, the first year that the boat went to sea. Amazingly, it took til last week to improve on that. This being not a race, and the middle of the Atlantic makes me a bit more careful than I would have been closer to a shore. But conditions were just right: a gust, a little too much sail, and the perfect wave. The boat just accelerated and didn't stop, just went faster and faster. And I was in my sleeping bag, looking at the speedometer going up and up, all the way to 16.7! Waw! And nothing much happened; after this mighty surf the boat returned to more normal speeds, and I quickly put a reef in!
Bart
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The wind is still fresh, from the north west, and we are going fast, over 7 most of the time! There is quite a big sea running. Surely, to my north, the wind is much stronger! But this situation is not to last; a high pressure system will move in from the south, and, if I am far enough to the north, will bring gentle westerly winds. Not bad, but we will slow down a bit. But probably teh temperature will rise again, as this morning it was only a little over 10 degrees, Cold, especially when you are used to subtropical nights!
Bart
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During the past week I sailed due east, skirting the southern edge of a big Low, which is currently stationary west of Ireland. It gives gale force winds all over, but here, on the southern edge, only some 15 knots. This morning, the wind steadily decreased, so around noon I took the decision to gybe and sail ENE to look for some wind. Indeed, the wind slowly increased again to 15/20 knots. Perfect sailing with poled out jib. Further, tomorrow a cold front will pass, and the further north I am the better it will be; am I too far south the wind will veer all the way to the northeast; am I sufficiently far north, the wind will only veer from west to northwest.
Last night I saw a fish inspecting the lure. At first I thought is was a dolphin, and felt sorry for that. But later I realized that, although this fish had a dorsal fin on it's back, it looked much more like the blue fin tuna's from the book. It twisted around the lure a few times, and was then gone. What a pity! I have nog caught anything since that single bluefish on the way to New York.
Bart
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At the moment I am:
244 miles off Flores, on my starboard bow
1181 miles off Camarinas, on the northwest corner of Spain, due east from here
1367 miles off the Lizard, England
1122 miles off Whitehead, Nova Scotia (this is measured in a straight line, as the crow flies. It does not take into account the dogleg I made to get around the Grand Banks)
1589 miles off Newport, Rhode Island.
Depending on the long range weather forecast for the Western Approaches, tomorrow, I might skip a visit to the Azores and head straight for Europe. So far, the trip is going very smoothly, and it is a shame to visit exotic and remote islands as Flores (or the other Azores), without having time to enjoy them properly.
Bart
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Today we have sailed flat out, all day. Perfect conditions, with a WNW breeze of 15 to 20 knots, a pooled out jib and 1 reef in the main. Easy sailing, but so far have averaged over 7.5 today! The counter current of the last few days is definitely gone!
But conditions are not likely to stay as they are now. Tomorrow we will have a high pressure system right over our heads, which means no wind... But after that, another low is coming up, promising more westerlies. Just what we need!
Bart
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Around noon a front came through, with fierce rain and gusting wind up to 30 knots. I took the mainsail down for a while, and continued under jib only, still doing 6.5 knots. After the front, skies cleared and the wind steadied again at some 15/18 knots, due west. Perfect, easy sailing.
Bart
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Later this morning saw the conditions everybody dreams of: Ocean of the deepest blue, not a cloud in the sky, no swell and a gentle (a little too gentle, to my taste) breeze on the quarter. Seawater temperature 27 degrees. I got some more suntan reading the biography of Peter Blake. Motivating lifestyle, this guy had!
Gradually, high clouds came in from the west, until is was completely overcast. Then the wind started to build, slowly but surely, and at the moment we are broad reaching in SW winds of around 15 knots, with the high aspect jib and full main. The wind is expected to build up to 30 knots tomorrow afternoon, so this promises to be a fast night. No swell as jet, so easy going.
Bart
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In a way, it is much less exciting then the ostar. During the race, I was constantly trying to make the most of it. I was also very curious about the others, and looked forward to every report by Nicolette. Where is British Beagle, what kind of weather? How can I catch up with him? What is Dick Koopmans doing? Why does he have wind while I am becalmed?? It was a much more intense way of sailing. I have to get used to the lazy affair that this crossing is. But I have a couple of books left, so I will manage.
And besides, the weather is about to change. When this ridge of high pressure has passed (and that goes very slowly as I almost keep up with it), a new, deep low is coming up. This will give gale force conditions to the north of me, and also a couple of days of nice, maybe strong, westerly winds to carry me east. I can't wait!
Bart
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But finally, early this morning, the wind did veer to the southwest, and increased in strength to over 30 knots. I was sailing under reefed jib and main sail with one reef, and that was way too much sail. Then a squall hit and the boat took off, hitting a top speed of 16.7 knots! I scrambled outside and took the mainsail down. Later, when the wind stabilized a little, I reset the main, this time well reefed!
All in all it is a bit of a stop-and-go game, with the wind changing between 35 and 10 knots. At the moment it is 10 again, and we bounce around on the still steep waves.
Still a long way to go...
Bart
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Last night a warm front came through, which changed the wind from ENE to ESE/SE. With it came dense clouds, thunder and lightning. I didn't feel comfortable at all! I guess it will take a while before my nerves will get used to lightning again.
Bart
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That night a light wind came up from the east, and fog set in, all according the forecast. It seems that summer is over, here, and a long train of tropical depressions is making it's way north along the gulf stream. Strong easterly and northeasterly wind are expected in the area of Newfoundland. Not very appealing... especially as easterly winds invariably bring a lot of rain and fog.
So I decided to set of from Whitehead. But before I could, I wanted to do some more shopping and also have a haircut. The nearest place with anything of a shop (and a barber) was Canso, some 35km away. So early morning, in thick fog but only a light drizzle, I set off on foot. Within five minutes a car came past and he gave me a ride all the way to Canso. As we went along the roads, I started to realize that this was a bit risky. All the way we only passed a single car going in the opposite direction! For the rest is Nova Scotia (New Scotland) the Christmas tree capital of the world, for as far as you can see.
So I did my shopping in the local supermarket, and met a couple from South Africa, camping in a tent. By that time the rain had set in and it rained like hell all morning. The Southafricans didn't have much else to do in this weather, with their tent pitched at the bottom of a mud pool and an air bed floating around inside, and accompanied me to the hairdresser. The place was most interesting, with all sorts of memorabilia up to original items off Titanic. He also had a passion for hats, and there were hats everywhere.
After me having had the haircut, the three of us had lunch in the local motel, and then they brought me all the way back to Whitehead. We had coffee on board, and while drinking this, the front came through. the wind veered from east to southwest, the rain stopped and the fog lifted (a little). I had to go! I said goodbye to the Southafricans and went up to the house of one of the locals who had helped me the night before with an internet connection for the latest weather forecasts. At his place I could have a shower and filled up some bottles with water.
Back on board, the southwesterly wind started to build and I knew I had to be quick, otherwise the wind would be too strong. I had hardly left my pontoon as the fog came back. As there is fog almost every day in this area, and the strong easterlies forecast, I carried on, carefully finding my way between the rocks. Visibility was less then 100 meters. But I made it safely outside, and started my Southeasterly course in the fog.
This morning I passed to the east of Sable Island, and now I am at 43d46N and 58d31W. Out into the Atlantic, in deep water now, the fog has cleared. But the wind died, too...
Bart
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So at sea, yesterday, I fitted all this. It was a failure! The white bulbs turned out to be green(!), and the reading light (also of LED type) is so enormously bright that it's unusable at night as it will blind you completely.
So annoying...
The good news, though, is that I had some strong words with my SPX-5 autopilot, after which the thing steered the boat quite satisfactorily all evening and night. Gives hope!
Bart
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